The TOP looper thread is the one that will be visible from the outside of the garment (along with a tiny bit of the bottom thread), while the needle thread will really only be seen on the inside of the garment. You can take the right needle out if you wish, but I left it in unthreaded (I tend to be lazy that way). For the tutorial included here, you need both loopers threaded but ONLY the left needle. You know what? I used a 1/4” seam on my latest project and it was perfect. DBD patterns include a 1/4" seam allowance, but the ideal seam allowance for a flatlock seam is 5/8" so you will have to add 3/8” to the pieces along the seams. Start by increasing the seam allowance on your pattern. Sure you could spend $4k on an industrial flatlock mahcine, but by changing a few settings on your serger, you can have seams that lie flat on the inside of the garment AND get a fun coverlock look on the front. Unlike coversitiching, you don't *need* special machine for flatlocking if you have a serger. Flatlocking is very common in athletic and swimwear wear since it minimizes chafing. One way that is not often seen but is very easy is flatlocking. Some people make sure they top stitch the seam flat and others use french seams. There are many ways that people get around this. Whether it's an issue of sensory aversion, sensitive skin, or just plain preference. The downside is, of course, that the nature of colorblocking means many seams on the inside of the shirt.įor many people, this is a deal breaker. Whether it's the myriad of Euro patterns or the catalogue from DBD (or other fantastic designers like Elliedactyl), they are wonderful for using scraps, making good use of coordinates, and they're just plain fun. Color blocked garments are really in right now.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |